Chanel hosted their Cruise 2024 runway show at the Paramount Studios in Los Angeles on Tuesday May 9, 2023. The event saw the design house paying tribute to the City of Angels and its impact on fashion and culture. However, it also appeared to be a deliberate attempt to inform the masses that both Chanel and Los Angeles are making a comeback.
Nowadays when people hear the name Chanel, they immediately think of a high end designer brand catering to mature, petite, elegant, preppy hyper-feminine personalities. Others may say, it's the fashion brand with really expensive flap bags whose prices seem to keep rising despite consumer outcry. However, Chanel is so much more and has contributed quite a lot to the art and business of women's fashion.
Chanel's founder and first Creative Director, Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel, set out on a mission to show the world and empower women to believe that it was possible for them to maintain their looks of femininity while being comfortable in their high quality clothing. She was constantly pushing the boundaries of what could become fashionable yet functional, always creating and innovating. The french brand became a trend setter in the industry. However, not long after, competition from other fashion houses would follow and surpass Chanel's popularity among consumers of the 1970s. After Coco Chanel passed away, many thought the fashion house's existence would also have died with her. Then came Karl.
Karl Lagerfeld was appointed Creative Director in the early 80s, tasked with essentially resurrecting the fashion house that no other lead designer wanted to touch. He took up the mantle and continued Coco's mission of pushing boundaries and innovating. The fashion industry and Chanel have him to thank for some of the best runway shows and ready-to-wear designs, appealing to younger populations and opening doors to newer clientele. Karl was responsible for the enormous fame Chanel gained during the era that Hollywood also took the world by storm.
Karl Lagerfeld died in 2019 and his long time "right hand", Virginie Viard seemed like the natural successor. Viard was adamant about staying true to the roots of Chanel as laid out by Coco, while paying homage to her mentor Karl. The looks sent down the runway since her appointment have mainly reflected 1910s Chanel and revamped designs from Karl's era.
However, Chanel lovers have criticized her for producing uninspiring designs. While Karl certainly had some lackluster shows and Virginie has had some memorable designs, the general consensus of now is that the brand is boring. At a time when newer design houses are creating designs live on the runway with 3D printing, the overplayed tweed sets and classic flaps from Chanel were definitely not enough. If they were to carry on like this, they would once again be going out of style.
Speaking of going out of style, Los Angeles was once the place of dreams but in the last few years became unpopular and less desirable. Once upon a time, people would sell all they had, move from their small towns and head to LA for a chance to make it big in Hollywood, sports, technology or as an influencer. It was the place to unapologetically wear bikinis and roller skates, buy $10 coffees and rub shoulders with A-List celebrities.
Around the years 2017-2018 it became most evident that life in LA was just as facetious as the movies produced there. Behind the glamorous and romanticized social media posts were people struggling to make ends meet as the cost of living rose to an all time high. Homelessness and crime became prominent along with environmental pollution. The COVID 19 pandemic amplified these issues, driving down the city's revenue while driving residents and hopefuls away.
Chanel's choice to host and pay tribute to LA at this time was a clear and deliberate effort to remind fashion lovers and the rest of the world that both brands are still here and still matter.
Whilst the set design was nothing close in fascination as many created during Karl's time as director, Virginie's team did a reasonable job at highlighting LA's best and notable attributes. Models walked on a catwalk which was outlined as a basketball court with scoreboard overlooking. This was honoring 16-time NBA championship winners, the Los Angeles Lakers. Natalia Bryant (eldest daughter of late NBA player Kobe Bryant) was a special guest invited to honor her father who devoted 20 years of his career to the team and the city.
They also shone the spotlight on Hollywood by inviting many A list celebrities and actors synonymous with the city. There were fashionable It Girls- Sofia Richie, Paris Hilton and Lori Harvey; reality stars Kris Jenner and Christine Chieu as well as actors and Chanel brand ambassadors like Margot Robbie and Kristen Stewart.
Additionally, much of the looks seen on the runway for Chanel Cruise 2024 showcased the brand's history while playing up the LA influence of the super casual yet vivid, edgy and playful designs. Based on murmurs from viewers in attendance and watching on line, Chanel will be expected to put many of these designs into production to meet the November 2023 release date. Los Angeles should also prepare for an influx of visitors and residents as younger generations are obsessed with It Girls, beach life and big city aesthetics.
They are back baby! Chanel x Los Angeles are back on trend.
Stay Fashionably Well,
TheFashionFindess
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